Gotham Gal

Selene Restaurant

After a major chill by the pool, we went back into Fira for drinks and dinner. 

We had read that Franco's was the place to go for drinks and a killer sunset.  Truthfully, you can't go wrong anywhere watching the sunset but Franco's has a very sweet set up.  Lounge chairs over looking the water where you can put your feet up and sip a delicious drink.  Quite nice.  Our views were spectacular as we watched the sun slowly dip behind the water as if we were sitting on the edge of the world.  We all had a cocktail at Franco's watching the sunset before we walked over to Selene for dinner. 

Selene popped up everywhere when we did our research on Santorini.  They have a cooking class which I attempted to get us into a few months ago to no avail.  My gut tells me that they weren't interesting in the family action after reading about the class.  A little bit of watching, a little bit of eating and a little bit of drinking.  Although the kids would have loved it, I can understand why they were hesitant. 

The restaurant is mostly outside and down the road from the main town which is nice.  An expansive wrap around porch hugging the mountain.  Really beautiful.  The menu is eclectic and innovative vs. traditional Greek which we have seen in most places.  Some of it worked, some of it didn't. 

We began with a little taste from the chef.  Raw white tuna in a small cup of spicy gazpacho.  Nothing to write home about.  The appetizers were the best part.  The kids all opted for the octopus carpacchio served with white eggplant.  Beautifully presented, thinly sliced octopus that rose up above the disc of chopped eggplant that was very flavorful.  I went with the sea urchin.  Two raw clams, pounded down and mixed in with the avocado puree.  Then two artichoke hearts that had the artichoke puree served inside of them and sea urchin inside of that.  The flavors worked and were quite good but you really couldn't taste the sea urchin because the avocado was overpowering but I liked it.  Fred went with the zucchini that was served way too raw and filled with langostines.  He gave it a thumbs down. 

Dinner was mixed reviews all around.  Josh and I went with the lamb.  Although I know fish should have been the call, nothing was calling out my name.  Layered lamb and tomatoes inside rice and feta over the top and grilled.  Think lasagna with the ingredients I just mentioned.  Not that interesting and quite bland.  On the side was a supposed lamb chop but they had taken off the bone and rare/medium rare is not in their vocabulary.  As Josh put it, it tasted gamey although it isn't game.  He was absolutely right.  The girls went with the grouper.  Fillet of grouper grilled.  They loved it, I thought it was boring.  Here is why restaurant critics are not always spot on.  My tastes don't necessarily mean they are yours or my own kids for that matter.  Fred went with the pistachio crusted snapper and didn't like it at all. 

Based on dinner, we blew off dessert and strolled through town.  We returned to NRG Crepe and Josh went with the sweet crepe.  Nutella and banana.  Can't be beat.  He looks happy eating it.  The girls went with gelato.  Jessica was having withdrawals from Florence.  Not the same in Greece but we tried.  After tasting one place, 10 euro a taste.  I actually liked that they charged us because after we tasted everything and decided it wasn't that great at least we paid them for the opportunity.  Instead we went to a place that we had walked by a few times when leaving town which had pretty decent gelato.  The chocolate was the best, the strawberry was a bit too sweet.  The place was called Cafe Karavan.  They also had Greek pastries, bite sized.  It filled everyone's sweet tooth. 

Back to the hotel.  Until tomorrow...

Back to town, Fira

Our hotel is in the middle of Santorini so having a car is key.  In many ways, I like being out of the main drag.  It is very mellow.  We go out during the morning/early afternoon and come back in the late afternoon to chill. 

This morning we went into Fira for the total tourist experience.  We took the cable car down the mountain into the port and the donkeys up the mountain.  It was fantastic.  Sounds cheesy but I'd do it again.  First of all, the town is much bigger than you think.  We went through the town this morning following signs to the cable cars.  Decided that taking the cable car down was better because taking the donkey down could be a bit daunting and opted to take the donkey up. 

The cable car ride lasts maybe 2 minutes.  Beautiful views (see the picture above).  Once you get off the cable car you are in at the port.  The port is a semi-circle where there are basically a few tourist places and mini-markets but the water is gorgeous and the people couldn't be nicer.  We looped around and found the donkey area. 

The donkeys are much smarter than you think.  First of all, they are very competitive.  They like to be first in line.  I got on the donkey thinking that some person was going to walk the donkey slowly up the hill with me.  Wrong.  The donkey takes off and it doesn't take more than a few seconds for me to realize that I am on my own.   The kids come behind me a few moments later.  We are all hysterical.  My donkey had taken off until the others caught up with us.  At one point, Jessica's donkey literally kicked mine when he tried to cut him off at the pass.   Walking up the hillside is beautiful and the entire activity is comical.  An absolute must do. 

Afterward, we strolled through town and decided it was time to find our lunch place.  We had read about a place called NRG Cafe.  We looked and looked but to no avail.  But, hey with a few blackberry's and Google, you can always find what you are looking for.  NRG is above Murphy's Bar up the road from the Lava Cafe.  We found them both and low and behold we found NRG. 

NRG is a small clean little crepe place both savory and sweet.  Lucky for us, the one high table was just emptying out and we had a place to sit.  Thin sweet crepes wrapped up with your fillings of choice.  I went with the Italian tuna, feta, tomatoes and corn.  Delicious.  The girls had the same sans Feta.  Fred went with the pesto, feta and artichokes.  The pesto was sweet.  Josh went with the special, chicken, pineapple, cheese and sweet and sour sauce.  It sounds weird but it was quite delicious.  Again, worth finding this place.  Crepes are everywhere particularly around Santorini square.  NRG off Santorini  Square about 2 streets but worth the walk. 

Next stop, pool. 

Fira

Enough relaxing, we drove into Fira for dinner.  An adorable rambling town built into the side of a mountain over looking the water.  Seeing the variety of white structures rambling down to the water with the sun setting is a breath taking sight.

We had dinner at Archipelago.  We sat outside over looking the water.  The sun was setting.  Sweeping views over looking the now dormant volcano.  Ships here and there enjoying the scenery.

We had a variety of dishes last night.  For the group, we split the tomato pancakes.  I really liked these.  I am not sure what was in them but it appeared to be chopped up tomato bread salad that had been deep fried into large balls.  Full of flavor and an interesting texture.  Everyone had an appetizer.  Josh and I went with the classic shrimp, feta and ouzo called "saganaki".  This particular one had quite a spicy bite at the end also the shrimps were large headed shrimp.  Very good.  Em had a vegetable soup which was basically a tomato based soup with veggies and pureed.  Interesting but not out of this world.  Jessica went with a smoked salmon that was layered between crispy triangular chips of pita bread and a mango avocado sauce.  It was very different and good.  Made me want to bust out and explore a little on the dinners coming up.  Fred went with a roasted eggplant dish mixed with feta and peppers and a spearmint sauce over it.  Spearmint sauce was all over the menu. 

For dinner, everyone but Josh went with seafood.  He learned.  When in Rome, do as the Romans.  Everyone is going with the fish from now on.  I had a sauteed calamari served in tons of olive oil, olives and sun-dried tomatoes.  Really tasty with a scoop of rice in the middle of mix up the sauce.  I gave Josh half of it because he had ordered a veal dish that he did not like at all.  Fred went with the seafood risotto and the girls had seafood salad, same as Fred's with no rice.  All good and fresh.

Dessert, of course, baklava and roasted fruit.  We strolled around Fira and took in the town.  A really nice evening. 

Santorini

We are here and it is beautiful.  We have a car and are set out to begin exploring tomorrow.  Today was a total chill by the pool and get our bearings.  Here we are sitting by the pool having a leisurely lunch before plunging into the pool and our books.

Daphne's Restaurant, Athens Greece

We had two dinners and one lunch in Athens.  August is tough because so much is closed.  We wanted to go to about 5 other restaurants but alas, all closed.  We ended up at Daphne's.  Although after much research we had a gut feeling it wasn't going to be great.  We were right.

What have learned a fair amount about traveling in the past couple of years.  Do your research before you get there.  Don't necessarily trust the concierge because they don't know you and your tastes.  Do not go to the local restaurants where all the tourists go, those restaurants, although they may be high end, cater to tourists.  Trust your instincts and plan ahead.  Each time we go somewhere, we get better. 

Daphne's was given high marks from the New York Times.  Although I am a huge fan of the New York Times for my daily intake, I haven't trusted their travel section since we went to Jamaica years ago.  Half Moon Bay was revered as a fantastic resort.  Granted HMB is also given praise in many travel magazines but that doesn't mean it is as good as they say.  The resort was terrible.  Run down, bad restaurants, unfriendly, just an awful experience.  We had rented a home on the premises which is available to do with 2 families.  In my bathroom, I could literally take a shower while brushing my teeth if Fred was in the shower.  That sort of defines the resort.  Your cocktail generally came at dessert.  But enough of that, back to Daphne's.

We sat outside in the back.  The building is old and charming but also run down.  The food is mediocre at best.  Service was okay and really quick considering most places in Greece let you linger.  Three of us began with an octopus vinaigrette.  Sliced pieces of boiled octopus sliced and then served in olive oil.  Simple.  Fred had calamari rings that were grilled and stuffed with feta, Gouda and mozzarella.  Everyone thought it tasted like bad pizza.  Emily went for the large white beans in a red sauce.  Classic Greek dish.  Good not great. 

For dinner Jess had an artichoke ragout (her and Emily split four appetizers between them for dinner) which was over cooked and laden with dill.  They other dish was the classic shrimp baked in feta, red sauce and ouzo.  This was quite good.  I liked the slight hint of ouzo that came out in the sauce.  Josh had roasted veal in wine sauce.  A Greek like osso bucco meets brisket.  Not bad but served with a huge amount of pasta on the side which I didn't get.  Fred and I went for lamb.  The only reason we didn't do fish is because we figured we'd be eating fish daily and nightly for the next week.  Big mistake.  Overcooked and tough with a spinach pie mixture on the side without the phyllo and baked carrots in butter. 

Dessert was better.  We had the ice cream which is recommended that comes from the root of okra, I think, and a mixture of traditional Greek desserts.  Walnuts wrapped in phyllo with cinnamon, a strange spaghetti squash dish wrapped in phyllo and the classic custard dish which was okay not great.  I love Greek desserts too.

All and all, we had a nice time and walked back to the hotel from there but the food, not so great.  I am not sure I'd race back to Athens so quickly but I'd return if I knew a native and it was in season.  An interesting city but one and a half days is plenty. 

Athens

It is hot and it is August so a lot of places are not open but how can you not stop in Athens en route to an Island in Greece? 

We got on the subway this morning which is clean and spacious.  Rode over to the Acropolis and walked the walk.  What can I say?  An incredible ancient structure that sits a top all of Athens.  The views are absolutely spectacular.  Pollution, earthquakes, tourists have taken their toll on these ruins but the Acropolis stills stands and is still impressive.

We walked down and hopped on the subway over to the markets.  I had a hunch they would be closed on Sunday and I was right.  Drag.  We love the food markets.  Instead we ambled over to the flea market which was a variety of stores that sold sneakers, clothes, furniture etc.  Hoping to eat lunch in the area but all the places we wanted to go were closed.

This crew does not just eat anywhere.  We continued to find one of the places we had researched until we found one open.  Not so easy in August.  All of them were closed.  On the last try, we had success.  Paradosiako which lacks ambiance but makes up for everything with the food.  A small taverna with an even smaller kitchen in the back with one woman putting out the dishes.  We sat on the sidewalk and ordered the daily specials.  The menu is pretty large but unless there is a price next to it for the day, they don't have it. 

We had four vegetables to begin.  Fava beans that had been ground up like porridge.  Tasty and good.  Next was an eggplant salad.  Thinly sliced eggplants that almost looked like thin noodles.  Sauteed in ample olive oil and seasonings.  Reminded me very much of the eggplant salad they served at Kalustyans in the city.  I can't detect the spice.  We also had the classic Greek Salad, how could you not?  The best was the eggplant ragout, pictured here.  Huge chunks of soft eggplants cooked with oregano, red peppers, onions and olive oil.  We decided it was like a Greek caponata.  Absolutely delicious, sweet salty and full of flavor. 

We opted to try a few of the fish of the day.  Grilled sardines.  Small and crispy.  Octopus which we literally fought over.  Large sliced octopus that was crispy on the outside and soft and warm on the inside.  Full of flavor sitting in olive oil and lots of oregano.  The calamari was the entire body grilled and sliced.  I have never seen a calamari that big before.  Incredibly crispy on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside.   All served with big hunks of lemon on the side.  You can see how much we liked everything from our clean plates.

We went through 3 large bottles of water and they gave us fresh watermelon sliced up at the end.  A mom and pop/family joint.  Excellent.  Total meal cost us $55 euros.  The best deal we have had yet and also the best food, hands down.   

Athens, we made it!

One day of smooth travel was just too good.  Yesterday, the travel was the pits.  Our tickets were screwed up and they lost my luggage.  There is nothing like having your luggage lost when you literally have nothing else but the clothes on your back.  As I described to the people at AMEX (why not put them on the case too) that if this had happened 2 months ago, I could have survived a bit better by going shopping.  Now the clothes in the store are mostly fall so even if I wanted to buy a couple of new items while the hunt for my luggage continues, there is nothing to buy.  Ugh! 

We got to the hotel and the rest of the gang was there.  We are staying at a great hotel right in the middle of town.  Grand Bretagne Hotel.  Great beds, nice sized rooms and good service.  What else could you ask for?

We ambled around the area of Kolonaki and had lunch, and of course coffee.  Everyone is drinking the same thick frothy sugary milk shake looking coffees.   We were all beat so we came back to the hotel, chilled and then went up to the top of the hotel for drinks before going out for dinner.  The views are simply spectacular from the top.  This is a picture of that. Definitely worth taking the trip to the top.  We had breakfast there this morning too.  The city is simple and modern from above, streamlined and clean vs. walking through the streets which have a different feel. 

For dinner, we went to Varoulko.  Our taxi driver suggested we eat somewhere else on the water.  I just laughed and said no thanks.  My guess is they all get some kick back from the restaurateurs by taking the tourists somewhere for dinner.  Made me laugh. 

Varoulko is a beautiful modern restaurant.  We sat outside on the roof.  Simple white chairs and tables.  Quite a treat.  The waiter just brought out what the chef was preparing for the day which was fine with all of us.  We started with a tiny crispy round dough, almost like a pizza with sauteed onions and mint on top under carpaccio of white fish.  Not that interesting.  The second course which was the best course was thinly sliced pieces of calamari that had been sauteed in pesto and served over thinly sliced potatoes.  The calamari was so thin if it were not for the taste you would have thought you were eating linguine.  The next course was a cuttlefish ink risotto.  Very tasty a little salty but good.  The last course was a whole flounder roasted and served with a sauteed escarole.  They cut the fish for you after giving you a show.  Served over a sauce, can't really pin point that flavor.  It was very bland and not that interesting.  Three of us really didn't eat it. 
We loved the view, enjoyed the place but the meal wasn't as delightful as the views and the experience.

Today at 830am, I was woken by a phone call to tell me my luggage was downstairs and should they bring it up?  Oh lucky day.  I have never been so happy to see a piece of luggage.

Florence

It is hot in Florence.  I'd say around 95ish, no humidity.  We walked until we dropped today. My feet actually hurt.  We hit a few of Jessica's highlights.  Wow. 

First stop, Olio Convivium where we picked up some balsamic vinegar.  You know you are in Florence when a store looks like this.  Also, when they give you each a biscotti cookie that was so dense with huge chunks of chocolate just because you were talking about how beautiful the cookies looked.  The store itself was just exquisite.

Then we walked over to Gustapanino, where they know Jessica.  We split 2 of the best piadines I have ever had.  It is a wrap, in Italian. The bread was thin and crispy.  Ingredients were fresh and delicious.  We  had two to split.  One was Italian tuna, mozzarella, lettuce and tomato.  The other was smoked turkey breast,  spicy salami spread (sounds wierd but think olive paste with salami), provolone and marianated eggplant.  Delicious.  The sandwiches/wraps cost $3.50 euros.  The best deal in Florence.

After more walking and resting we ended up at Hemingways for a late afternoon treat.  A small cafe that is about ice cream, coffee, liquers and chocolates.  We split a few things.  We had a fresh fruit drink called San Francisco.  Orange, pineapple, peach, lemon and apple.  A total mouth freshener.  Then we had the best milkshake I have ever had, hands down.  Strawberry gelato and balsamic vinegar.  Needless to say I got the recipe on the way out.  1/4 cup balsamic ( around ), 1/2 cup milk (around) and 3 scoops strawberry gelato.  This is definitely something to try out when we get home.  Then we had a mixture of chocolate tastings.  Very original and absolutely sublime.  We bought a huge mixed box to bring to the gang in Greece.

Tonight we are hitting up our favorite restaurant in Florence, Fuor d'Aqua.  Only here for 36 hours but I am absolutely getting my food fill in. 

Jessica in Florence

I flew into Florence this morning.  You can't fly directly into Florence so I went through Munich.  Flew Lufthansa Air who happen to be partners with United Airlines.  An incredibly efficient organization.  We landed on time, got off the plane, walked over to the next gate where they were boarding, got on and took off.  It couldn't have been more seamless.  What a pleasure! 

Got to the hotel and Jessica arrived 10 minutes later.  Loving the hotel.  I am staying at the Hotel Savoy.  Perfect location and wonderful rooms.  Also, Jessica brought her laundry over here yesterday (my suggestion) for them to do and the woman who checked me in told me she met my daughter, etc. etc.  Love that. Booked it through AMEX which is always a bonus because they give you an upgrade.  I have been using the same travel agent at AMEX for the past 2 years.  I found someone who is efficient and gets back to me quickly and gave me his email to contact him directly.  It has been a joy to work with him. 

Jessica is happy as a clam.  Her month in Florence has been a wonderful experience.  She took me to one of her favorite places for lunch.  We walked forever, did a bit of shopping and she went off to spend the last night with her friends.  Tomorrow, it is just her and me doing our thing.  I am really looking forward to eating my way through Florence with her tomorrow and a little shopping too.

PNC, Holmdel NJ

I grew up going to outdoor concerts every summer.  We went to Merriweather Post Pavillion which I remember being a great forum.  Last night we went to the Art Center Bank in Holmdel NJ to see Ben Folds (first up) and John Mayer.  Not a great forum.

Driving takes about 40 minutes from downtown NYC.  Unfortunately, the PNC is not really equipped for the kind of traffic they get.  Or more to the point, it is what it is.  It took us longer to get into the place than it did getting there.  Once we parked, in a very far away area, walked up to the arena, attempted to find a place and sit down, we were all pissy.  But, we mellowed out and had out picnic (thanks for Emily who made it and served it).  Baguettes scooped out with a spicy mustard, grilled chicken breasts sliced, grilled lettuce, sliced tomatoes and thin slices of goat Gouda.  Quite delicious.  Also, in our Chinese containers grilled asparagus and grilled cherry tomatoes for the side. 

By the time we got there, Ben Folds was already rocking. We couldn't see a thing.  The picture of of the view is below. The crowd was packed to way over capacity.  We ate our dinner, enjoyed the weather and the company.  Ben finished and John came on.  We had seen John Mayer before.  He is okay in concert, not great although he does play a mean guitar.  We really came for Ben.  So after a few songs, we all looked at each other and decided to leave.  Why bother with the traffic when we had our fill.  So, off we went. 

I am pretty sure that going to PNC again will not be in my near future or far future but it was an adventure.