Gotham Gal

Planning a trip

Somebody asked Fred what blogs we use for travel plans.  There is no doubt that the Internet has changed travel but it isn't all about the net.  If you spend some time looking on the web, inevitably you can find a blogger who writes about the area you are going to.  Also, there are so many sites where travelers give feedback about their likes and dislikes in reference to food, museums, hotels, etc.  Personally, I am not a big fan of those sites.

We certainly have a method to our madness. It is a mixture of old school and new school.  First off, I keep an array of folders.  If we know that we have plans to go somewhere in the future, I start ripping out information on that area from magazines way in advance.  So do the kids. Funny enough, we generally don't use the information so much but it is more a confirmation or a reference point.  That is step one.

Step two, we do get a few travel books that we believe to have the latest cutting edge info.  Luxe City Guides are by far the best.  In many ways, if Luxe gives something a nod, you can pretty much be assured that it will be quite good.  Something like the good housekeeping seal of approval for us.  We also like the TIme Out and Wallpaper guides.  In the past, I was a huge fan of Access guides which I still do like but more for historic information on a neighborhood and good maps. 

Last, it is all about the Internet.  Even though the information we accumulate from books and magazines is worthwhile, it is all confirmed on the web.  Everyone has a website these days.  Restaurants generally have pictures of the place and a menu.  Just because someone says it is great, the menu might not appeal to you.  Gridskipper is a key resource too.  Maps and highlights of areas.  Best travel source online. 

I do use my blog too.  If people suggest things, I always take a look.  Fred uses twitter for that.  But, again, the source is not always the right source for you.  So, we take it one step further to confirm that the particular source is in line with our sensibilities. 

Lastly, lots of conversation and cross research.  We generally take out a piece of paper and write down everything we want to see, where we want to eat, where we want to shop, etc.  If we are taking a week or two, we even plot it out by the day in order to really get to see what we want and not waste time.  Nothing worse than getting somewhere and everyone looks at each other and says "hmmm, what should we do today".  Also, reservations are key.  If we are staying at a hotel, I generally email the concierge a month in advance and ask them to make reservations for dinners each night.  Sometimes we don't use them but at least we have them. 

When we start plotting everything out, you find that everyone has their sweet spot.  Em was the expert on chocolate, cheese and bakeries in Paris.  Jessica was all about the clothes.  I tended to gravitate towards the museums.  Not that we all aren't into those things and we discuss it.  For instance, I heard ot that and I saw that and I read on four blogs that was fantastic.  But, like life, it is all about give and take.  When the kids were younger, I owned all of this.  Now, I let them drive a lot of the process. 

So, is the Internet the end all.  No.  Like anything, it is research from cross platforms that really make a great trip.

Returning to NYC

I sat on the plane yesterday and was trying to take in everything we did for the past 5 weeks.  As much as I savored the moment as we took everything in, in many ways I am savoring all the moments now.  The impact of living in foreign city for an extended stay will have affected all of us in different ways.  What they are, I am not sure I know, but the experience is certainly being felt.

I am glad to be back in my town.  I miss my bed.  I miss my closet and the access to it.  I miss the New York Times, although the Herald Tribune is a close second.  I miss our day to day environment.  As all good vacations, it is fantastic to leave and fantastic to come home.  I miss my kitchen.  I miss my vespa. 

I am going to re-enter slowly.  After all, it is summer.  My desk is loaded.  My head is swamped.  But, each  day, I'd like to take a moment to think about something that happened over the 5 weeks be it the almond croissant from Coquette in Montmarte, the Monets at Museum Orangerie, Dover Street Market and BStore in London or a pastry at Pierre Herme.  I want to just step back and savor what we did.

When I came back from London, in college, after spending six months over seas, the experience changed me.  Of course, I was of the age where you are so supple and the experiences mold you as a person.  Reading a book can be life changing at that time.  But, I have the same type of feeling that I did when I returned from London.  I can't really put it into words.  I am not really sure how those feelings will evoke my emotions and maybe they wont.  But, there is something there. 

Last day overseas

We got up early to take Emily to Oxford.  Jessica did a program with ASA last year, which she loved so we stuck with ASA.  Emily will be there through mid-August.  110 kids from the US and Internationally.

She could have left with the group from the states but it didn’t make sense considering we were already in Europe.  We took her to the area in Oxford, which ASA has staked out for classes and dorms.  Pretty sweet.  They were also incredibly organized…very impressive. Everyone gets their own room and the rooms are a decent size for a college campus. 

We got her bag up to her room and Josh helped her unpack, literally.  He folded and helped organize her.  It was quite cute.  Then, we left.  What is really nice is Emily is going with a very very old friend.  Her best buddy from the time she was one year old.  They were 2 peas in a pod.  Cute as a button together.  In many ways, when we lived in the suburbs, her friends family, became like our own.  I have so many fond memories of those times together.  Funny enough, when we left, so did they.  We moved to the city and they moved to Greenwich.  Emily was 6.  But, we have kept up and Emily gets to see her friend at the beach once a summer.  Last summer, as my friend and I were talking, we realized that both of the girls were thinking of doing a program in Oxford the following summer.  Perfect.  The girls would go together.  So, Emily is there with a very old friend, which is probably comforting for both of them.

We grabbed a train back to London and had lunch at Daylesford Organic in Chelsea.  The concept is fantastic and would be well suited to NYC.  Wish someone would open it up near our home.  Maybe I should open it up? 

The store is clean and white.  A large marble table downs the middle of the restaurant/store.  Community seating.  There are pre-made salads, a cheese area, a salami/sausage area and a sweets area surrounding the right perimeter of the room.  Then, on the other side there are fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, jellies, and other jarred goods as well as a small frig for chickens and meats to prepare at home.  Upstairs, there is a store full of pots, pans and accessories for the kitchen.  You can eat there, breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner.  We had a beet and mozzarella salad, sautéed red cabbage with golden raisins, Thai chicken salad and there are many more including scones, desserts or a burger.  You can pick from 1 – 2 – 3 salads for a plate.  You can also pick up a loaf of bread, a hunk of cheese, a few chicken thighs, a head of broccoli and a peach to bring home.  Everything is organic.  Across the street is there butcher.  Loved it. 

We all hemmed and hawed afterward on what to do and in the end, Josh and Fred returned to our hotel and Jess and I hit the town.  We walked down Elizabeth Street that is in a growing area of Chelsea called Belgravia.  We stopped in the Chocolate Society shop (love the name), and a fantastic hat store, Phillip Treacy that makes hats for “rock and royalty”.  After, we hopped in a cab and went over to Selfridges.  It is a bit overwhelming in there.  Like a Barneys but British.  A bit louder and less subdued.  I tried on a pair of pants that were so ridiculously expensive that I can probably buy in the states.  What will be interesting is to see is how much they cost in the states?  Have prices gone up more from last fall? 

We left Selfridges and ran over to BStore.  BStore is on Seville Row.  When I was in college, Seville Row was stuffy mens clothiers.  No longer.  BStore carries a variety of young designers who are up and coming.  They also create and manufacture the shoes for Opening Ceremony ( which we found out speaking with the owner ).  Two guys, who have impeccable taste.  Wonderful stuff and labels I have never seen. 

The store closes at 630 and we got there at 615.  We apologized at 630 but they were happy to help us since we were making some purchases.  At 640, a woman walks in the door, and we look at each other and say hello.  She is the person who waited on me the other day at Dover Street Market.  Her husband is one of the owners of the store.  Probably the hippest, best dressed couple in London.  It was quite funny and they both assured us that we had hit the two best stores in town.  Small town.

Jess and I flew back to the hotel where Fred and Josh were waiting to leave for dinner.  We changed in less than 5 minutes and ran out the door.  No need to run.  We were going to Hakkasan.  Our reservations were confirmed for 730 but they weren’t in the book.  So, we sat at the bar until around 845 until they finally found us a table.  They were nicer as the evening went on but they weren’t so charming from the onset.  Like it was our fault? After all, they screwed up because Fred had the confirmation on his blackberry ( gotta love that ) and knew the girls name who did work there.

Hakkassan is a happening underground Chinese restaurant.  The menu is extension and interesting.  We had dumplings, salt and pepper squid, Berkshire pork with pomegranate sauce, silver cod fish with honey and champagne, Peking duck which sliced and served over rice noodles like a salad (although I think they got that one wrong), asparagus with lotus root and I think that covers it.  For me, the problem with Chinese food, which I rarely partake in, is that it looks good and tastes good going down but it isn’t good by the time the meal finishes.  It makes me feel like a log. It will take me a while to do Chinese again.  We never eat it in NYC but once in a blue moon decide to go to Chinatown for dumplings, Peking duck or dim sum.  Dim Sum, same thing, you think it will be so much fun and then you walk away feeling ill.  I make Chinese at home, which I do like but not eating it out regardless of how high end it is. 

We went home, packed and crashed to wake up for a very early pick up to Heathrow.

Last day...

Tomorrow, we are dropping Emily off in Oxford for a 2 1/2 week adventure.  We are seriously winding down.  I consider it a major achievement that we are still talking to each other.  2 teenagers, one tween and parents in very close quarters in a foreign environment for 5 weeks.  Woah.  Believe me, we have had our moments but all and all, not that we don't need a major rest from each other, we appear to still have some respect and love for each other.  That in itself, is a major major achievement, believe me.

Today, we got up and the girls wanted to go to In the Park for breakfast.  Supposedly we should get off at the Green Park station.  We had a moment there when Josh and I were concerned we were going on another escapade of finding the perfect spot but Fred, the ultimate neutralizer ( in all his activities ) got us going and we found the place.  It was fantastic.  Glad we found it.  A restaurant, in the middle of St. James Park with a killer breakfast.  A full on English Breakfast- mushrooms, duck eggs, crumpets, blood pudding, sausages, etc.  Delicious.  Our waiter, funny enough, had lived in NYC for 5 years working at Jekyll and Hyde on Seventh Avenue.  He sung the praises of NYC vs London.  Cheaper and more opportunities.  Interesting. 

Fred left us and we all took an hour long walk, swear, over to Satchi Gallery.  Jessica, our leader, clued us in about 45 minutes in to our walk, that she was not a fan of the tube which is why we walked so far.  The Satchi Gallery is closed until October.  UGH!  Josh and I departed to go to Madame Tussuad's Wax Museum.  After sitting through a play last night for 3 hours, I promised.  We got there, 2 hour line.  Keep in mind, if I had if I had booked it on line we would have waltzed in.  Regardless, Josh looked at the line, looked at me and basically said, NFW.  Couldn't agree more.  We got back on the tube and went over to Covent Garden where the girls were having tea with one of their teachers.

We got there, Josh became enamored with a magician and I sat down to read the Tribune and do the crossword.  After it was over, we met Fred at Rock and Sole, a local fish and chips joint, for lunch.  Fish and Chips might be something that I remember fondly but in the end, isn't that good.  Although, Rowdy Hall in East Hampton does have a killer fish and chips.  It is funny.  NYC has taken certain foods from across the world and fiddled with them to make them better.  Chips would be one of those things.  I don't dig the big fat chips but love the skinny browned ones they do in the states.  So American, re-inventing and making it better.  Oooh god, that sounds so awful. 

The girls met up with us and their teacher.  We all said our goodbyes and Fred and Josh went off and I went off with the girls.  On second thought, I went back to our hotel.  I am beat.  I took a shower, blogged and relaxed.  A pleasure.

Tonight we had dinner at Tom's Kitchen.  I had read about his restaurants over the past couple of years.  I really enjoyed Tom's Kitchen.  The vibe is great.  Reminds me of San Francisco and Australia.  Big glass windows with a farm feeling yet modern at the same time.  Big black and white photos, a marble bar and just an airy feeling.  We had a curry chicken salad to start in a kitchen glass - not what anyone expected, a artichoke truffle Parmesan salad which was simple and delicious.  Bread even costs money here, 1.50 pounds.  For dinner some of us had the special turbo with a roasted thyme ratatouille, some veggies on the side too.  Spinach and beet root cherry tomato salad. Josh has had it with the food, he went straight for the mac and cheese which was excellent.  Jess had the john dory with basil and cherry tomatoes.  I had pan fried scallops with a browned saffron sauce, chick peas, chorizo and cherry tomatoes.  All good.

The best, dessert.  Josh and Jess ordered the baked Alaska which was filled with a vanilla bean ice cream.  I also ordered a classic English berry pudding with a dollop of creme fraiche and a chocolate tart with peanut butter ice cream on the side.  Everything was tasty and delicious.  I'd come back again, with no question, if of course I lived in London.

We walked home.  It was really nice.  London is great.  Hopefully will be back sooner than later. 

London

We are definitely winding down.  Our clothes are gross.  I am spent and I really do not have the energy to see anything anymore...but we still did.

Yesterday we began in Notting Hill for breakfast at a wonderful place called Ottolenghi.  We sort of missed breakfast but were lucky to get a few granolas and muffins.  We were honestly happy just to stare at the food coming out of the kitchen for lunch.  The restaurant is like a small eatery where you can also take away.  Reminded me of a variety of places we have been to over the years where the chef (2 partners here) really have created their vision of a neighborhood kitchen.  You can eat there, in the back, in a very white room with flowers.  I felt like I was at the beach.  Everything looked so delicious that we picked up the cookbook which I am excited to try.  One of the owners is a Jew from Israeli, the other is a Palestinian who grew up in Jerusalem.  Both gay.  Came to London, met each other and created there restaurant/store.  They even make jams and ketchups to go with their names on it.  Really was a huge winner.  If I lived in Notting Hill, I'd probably go there daily. 

We jumped on the Metro and found our way over to Buckingham Palace.  Our timing was perfect.  We got there and the guards were changing.   You can't help but be a little awed by the procession that takes place every day.  You know when the Queen is home because the flag is out.  She was around yesterday which we got a kick out of and waved to the palace. 

We went over to Trafalgar Square to see one of my favorite museums in London, the National Portrait Gallery.  Seeing portraits from Shakespeare to Queen Victoria to David Beckham to Beatrix Potter is pretty cool.  Paintings to charcoals to photographs. 

After, the girls and I went to Dover Street Market.  A fantastic concept store.   I believe it was started by Commes Des Garcon.  6 floors, all different.  Men and womens on each floor.  Every floor told a story.  Brilliant stuff and vendors we have never seen before which is always a plus.  Unfortunately, the dollar vs the pound is like sticking a dagger through your heart.  As Luxe City Guides say ( the travel guide we can not live without ) don't come to London if you are on a budget.

Fred had to get on a conference call so he missed our next event.  We met up with Josh and walked around Fortnum & Mason.  Fortnum and Mason opened in 1707.  They just renovated the food halls.  Very stuffy old time place.  This might have been there first renovation since 1707...only kidding.

We then walked over to the Lanesborough Hotel.  I chose it because it was awarded the best afternoon tea of 2008.  You have to do tea at least once in London.  The room is beautiful.  The food was okay and the teas were fantastic.  It is a very leisurely proper event.  By the time we were finished, we had some time to kill, so we walked over to Harrods. 

Harrods is an experience in itself.  The food halls are over the top.  You sort of feel like you are at Willy Wonka's factory with a larger variety of cuisines besides chocolate.  A sushi bar, an ice cream bar, a pizza bar, a deli, a candy area, vegetables, meats, fish...it is endless.  Walking through the first floor is plenty.  There are so many people on that one floor it made me wonder how many people are in the store at a time.  Culturally it is interesting too.  Lots of women completely covered in black with the scarf covering their heads carrying Gucci bags.  Although NYC is a myriad of faces and people of different cultures, London takes that to another level. 

We were running late so we jumped in a taxi.  Although the cost is a killer, the taxis are fantastic here.  The drivers have to spend a year in training before they get to drive.  They need to know every street.  This city is not a grid system.  There are tons of tiny streets.  We were seeing Never So Good at the National Theater.  The theater is beautiful.  Many plays go on there are the same time.  Lots of little restaurants.  A green area to sit in while waiting for theater to begin. The area around it is sort of gritty but you can see the changes happening.  The play which is about the life of Harold Macmillan, the Prime Minister of England after Churchill (although there was one before that) from 1957-1963.  Jeremy Irons, who played Macmillan, was spectacular.  The stage and scenery were clever.  A really well done production but almost 3 hours.  A killer.  Alas.

At this point it was 11pm and nothing was open for food so we went home and called it a day. 

London calling..

We took a train from Paris to London this morning.  Emily is going to a program in Oxford for 3 weeks and since we were in Europe, we decided to come over and take her their ourselves. 

I lived in London for a semester in college.  It was a very different place then.  It sounds crazy to say it was more British then but that is the only way I can explain it.  The last time I was in London was 5 years ago and was blown away by how the city had become an extension of NYC and the USA.  That is a bit over exaggerated but I am thrilled to be back and embrace London again with a different set of eyes. 

I admit, it is also nice to hear English spoken again.  We took the train through the chunnel which was quite sweet.  The new train station, St. Pancras, is beautiful.  Last time I was here, it did not exist.  We are staying at a place called Base 2 Stay which has no amenities but a bed and a decent shower which is about all we need.  Would love to stay at the Mandarin Oriental but after spending a month in Paris and watching our dollar implode daily, I opted for something simple and cheap.  The rooms are 125 pounds a night.  Pretty cheap by London standards and we are in a great location.  One block from Earls Court tube stop which has 3 different lines running through. 

We got here, dropped off our bags and made our way over to Notting Hill to get some fish and chips.  Didn't exactly pan out so we got back on the tube and went to the Tate Modern.  Really an incredibly museum with a wonderful collection of modern art.  Almost too much to take in.  When I lived in London, during college, I remember as if it was yesterday, going to the Tate (before in another building and time) and seeing a Roy Lichtenstein exhibit and literally having an epiphany for the world of art.  It was if my life changed before my very eyes.  Today, the Tate had  2 shows, Urban Street and History ( a photography exhibit ) and Cy Twombly.  The museum is free except for the exhibits which is how it should be.  It is wonderful that anyone can come and enjoy the collection.  I have never been a huge fan of Cy Twombly although the show really did a great job of showing his work from beginning to now and the Street and History show - all photography - didn't grab me.  I am sorry we didn't just stroll through the permanent exhibit.  But after 2 shows, we were spent and it was time to go back and regroup for dinner.

We had reservations at Amaya which is an Indian restaurant in the Kensington Area.  That entire area appears to be wealthy Indians and Middle Easterners.  Very interesting certainly not that way 25 years ago.  The restaurant was unbelievable.  Not only was it nice to eat Indian food ( after eating French food for a month ) but the food was fantastic.

We began with 2 oysters.  Only Fred and I wanted them.  Fried in a light crust and put back in the shell and doused with a curry sauce.  A total OMG.  We then made our way into Tandoori shrimp which were each the size of my palm with a tomato ginger sauce on the plate.  Sweet, spicy and juicy.  Incredible.  We had a variety of breads which were all good but not the best I have ever had.  We had tandoori chicken and duck that had been de-boned which was juicy and spicy and delicious too.  I love the tandoori because the meat is always full of flavor yet juicy and charred at the same time.  Chicken lollipops that had been marinated in lime, cinnamon and cilantro and then grilled.  Not lots of meat but different and very lime tasting.  Josh and I split a small helping of the lamb osso bucco, biryani style.  One bone each, the meat slid off the bone and was soft and tasty.  Love the lamb.  Our vegetables were an eggplant that was served similar to the way they serve it in Japanese restauraunts.  Split in half, roasted and then grilled but the taste was like coriander.  Interesting.  The tofu, which was stir fried with spicy peppers and spices was also a hit.  Spinach, which I expected to be stir fried was like an Indian version of creamed spinach.  A total hit.  Delicious food, fun to share and innovative.  What else can you ask for?

We came home, hit the hay and got all of our computers up and running thanks to Fred and Josh.  Now, we can function.  Tomorrow, another day in London. 

Au Revoir, Paris....but I will be back, again and again

I have been attempting to put together the top things I loved about Paris but the truth is, it is much more complicated than that.  I have always loved Europe, the major cities, Rome, Paris, Amsterdam...and I would put London in that category too.  Why?  I guess one could say, how could you not.  But, I wanted to put it on paper ( or a blog ).  What is it? 

So, I am going to attempt to put it into words.  I love how the sun doesn't set until 1030 at night in the summer, the open air cafes where people are always out and about.  Perhaps because the living spaces are so small there is a need to be public.  I love the bread, the boulangeries and the patisseries.  I love the cheese and of course the chocolate and foie gras. I love the coffee. I love Soldes which only happens twice a year.  I love Cuisine de Bar for lunch, any day.  I love the food market at Bon Marche.  I love the dressing rooms at YSL.  I love the small intimate museums where you feel like you are the only person who has discovered how special it is.  I love the attitude and the fashion on the streets.  I love that we are living in 2008 and the town reads like it is 400 years old it not older.  I love the architecture.  I love the intimacy.  At the end of the day, I truly love the culture.  I love living in a very high tech world but walking the streets where there is so much history.  I love the rambling streets and the discoveries you make daily.  I love that every block has some type of landmark or statue or something of importance.  I love the laissez faire attitude but in some ways hate it too but embrace it while I am in Paris.  I love that everything shuts down on Sunday and forces you to take a back seat to the world.  I love the parks.  I love how the Seine weaves through the city.  I just love the old world elegance. 

Living in Paris for a month was wonderful for everyone.  That our kids can go back to Paris, at any time of their lives and know the streets and feel the city is something that they own.  That is special.  To connect to another world particularly as the world gets flatter and to embrace a culture for its history and substance is big. 

New York City is still my favorite place in the entire world but spending a month in Paris, makes me look at the world just a little differently and at the end of the day, that is a good thing for the entire family. 

Joel Robuchon

We saved the best for last. 

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon opens at 630, nightly.  You can only get reservations for 630, otherwise, luck of the draw just showing up.  As the summer winds down, there are not that many people waiting.  We made reservations.

What is interesting to note, is that I saw 3 other families with kids there.  Not sure what that says about the times we live in but I did find it interesting. 

There is no doubt that this was the best meal we have had.  There are 5 sections on the menu.  You can either go with the chefs tasting menu or pick from the menu.  On the menu there is a section for smaller plates, regular sized first courses, entrees and desserts.  We opted for picking.  Honestly, it was truly hard to pick.  Everyone kept switching back and forth.  In the end, we all ordered 2 small plates and one main course. 

Everyone sits at the bar.  We had a corner which worked perfect.  There are very specific in where they place you.  We have 2 on the right and 3 to the left.  Next to Emily, who was last on the end where there were 2, was a gentlemen who eats at Robuchon every Saturday night.  He went with some standards and then had all the specials of the evening.  Wow, to be able to eat here once a week is living large.

There are 3 small plates that he is known for.  The crab royale, the langoustine ravioli and baked eggs.  I went with 2 of those 3. 

Fred and Jessica started off with one of the specials, sea bream carpaccio.  The round white plate had a square cut in the middle where the fish lay.  Thinly sliced pieces of sea bream soaked with olive olive and salt.  Most a crudo, Italian style sushi.  The fish was like butter and absolutely delicious.  Emily went with the eggplant and mozzarella.  A bowl with a round piece of mozzarella wrapped with eggplants and a few other vegetables then seasoned with balsamic vinegar and olive oil.  As simple as that sounds, that taste was over the top.  I think that was what we found across the board.  The subtlety of the flavors.  Everything had been perfectly seasoned which in the end, is the key to good cooking.  Also, presentation makes a big difference.  Josh went the Jambon from spain served along side a toasted piece of bread loaded with chopped tomatoes.  This was his favorite dish in Barcelona and it was just as good as he remembered.  There are large jambons hanging in the kitchen.  I went with the crab royale.  A small rectangular black plate with 3 pieces of crab royale.  Each piece had a small cylinder of a thinly sliced tortilla ( at least that was the consistency ).  Over that was a large piece of king crab surrounded with a crab salad.  Then another thinly sliced radish and another piece of tortilla.  There were some greens chopped up in there too.  All I know is that the taste was out of this world.  Light, simple and layered.  I believe that although this is a signature dish, he doesn't not serve it exactly the same way in his different locations as he does in Paris.  The picture, I got from another site I found.

Our second course was also small.  The girls had squid.  In a small bowl, long pieces of heavily scored squid mixed in with other small pieces of seafood and vegetables and a spicy Asian sauce.  Small, simple but the zing and the flavor worked wonderfully.  Just a small amount was all you need to enjoy the dish.  Josh, Fred and I all did the langoustine raviolli.  Think gnocchi or small dumpling.  2 medium sized dumplings made of langoustines one on each side of the rectangular plate and the middle a very bright green sauteed cabbage which not only complimented the dish was good on its own. There was a flavoring in there besides butter.  Over the raviolli was a rich creamy light brown sauce made of foie gras and truffles.  Rich and over the top.  A total OMG. 

The mains were a tad larger.  Fred and I just went for the foie gras which is something we generally do not partake in but hey, it was our last night in Paris.  A piece of seared foie gras over a cherry sauce that had been boiled down and just streaked across the plate.  With 3 poached cherries on the plate.  Fantastic.  The girls went with the sole.  A square piece of sole, poached with summer vegetables over the top.  Simple but the fish was not only perfectly cooked, it was seasoned so perfectly that I have really never had sole that good.  Josh, couldn't help it, he went with the spaghetti which comes with either a red sauce or a carbonara sacue.  He opted for tomato although it was hard to decide.  No surprises, the spaghetti was delicious.

Dessert was a must.  Josh and Emily had the chocolate and vanilla pots of creme.  Jessica had something that appeared to be like vanilla ice cream sitting in a sauce of raspberries.  She was thrilled.  Fred went with the souffle and pistachio creme.  When they serve the souffle, they open it up and stick the pistachio creme inside.  It is beautiful.  I went with the tart tasting.  5 small pieces of a tart.  Woah.
Apple which I am not sure how the pastry chef was able to almost get an entire apple on a piece of tart that small.  Cinnamon which was really interesting.  Toasted cinnamon, think cinnamon toast, over a thin brushing of pastry creme.  It was different and innovative and of course good.  Raspberries set in a pastry creme for the raspberry tart, dense sweet chocolate for the fourth and the last was a lemon tart.  The lemon tart was over flowing and incredibly tart yet sweet at the same time.  It was a wonderful way to end the meal.  A little taste of everything.

Everyone basically said at the end of the meal, can we go again in NYC?  I was thinking the same thing. 
L'Atelier de Joel Rubuchon in Paris, is on the top 50 restaurant list in the world, not his others.  So, it would be of interest to check out NYC.  Are the dishes the same and do the taste as good or is it just the magic of Paris?

Les Papilles

Les Papilles was one of my favorite places.  A tiny grocery and wine store that is also a restaurant.  You sit among the many many bottles of wine including cans of duck confit.  Charming. 

Chef Bertrand Bluy, who is the chef and owner, was a pastry chef in his past life and worked in many top restaurants.  I also liked that whatever he is serving that day for dinner, is what you get.  No exceptions.  Pick you wines from the wall which are labeled with prices and he will just add them to your bill.  If you want suggestions, he is happy to make those too.

We began with a tomato gazpacho which happens to be one of my favorite summer treats.  This could have been one of the best gazpachos I have had, including gazpacho from Spain.  The deep bowl comes with a variety of vegetables beautifully places in your bowl.  Peppers, cucumbers, greens and a dollop of a mild goat cheese.  Then comes out a tureen of tomatoes that had been pureed into a rich simple flavorful broth.  It is your call on how much or how little you want to spoon in to your dish.  The soup tastes good without the vegetables so you can't help but pour just a little more in to your bowl to sop up with the sliced baguette.

Next out, duck.  I love duck.  He had braised the duck in a brown sauce with carrots, snap peas and tiny pieces of garlic ( although you can't taste the garlic  - it is just different here ) in a fairly decent sized copper pot.  The duck is rare.  Not sure how he actually prepared it but this is what came out.

A cheese course is next.  One stewed prune and a slab of Roquefort cheese.  Generally not my favorite but this was not stinky and intense.  Instead it was mild with a nice zip. 

Last out was an apricot panna cotta.  Served in a medium sized kitchen glass.  Rich cream with apricots running through the panna cotta but the best was the oozing apricots on the bottom.  A wow.

Not an easy place to get a resrvation but really worth the effort in getting it.  Mellow and wonderful.  If I was to open a restaurant, I might have to steal the concept.

Too much luggage?

We each came to Paris with a large rolling bag and a small rolling bag that can actually be taken on the plane.  We checked everything.  10 bags.  The bags we have are fantastic.  I became a fan of Ebags years ago.   They took all the things you love about luggage and piled them in to their own product.  The bag comes in small, medium and large.  We have 5 large and 5 smalls of the bag in the picture.

I actually did not over pack, the girls did.  It has been so cold here that I wish I had brought more sweaters.  I brought shorts and summer dresses that I never put on because of the weather.  Who knew. 

We are going to London on Sunday morning, by train, and although it would be comical to watch all of us attempt to get our 2 rolling bags and our carry on bag on to the train, individually, it would be insane.  So, I decided we should ship one bag per person back to make life easier.  Mostly dirty laundry and dry cleaning .

I called Fedexp and got a price.  I also talked to Luggage Forward, a company that does it for you by using companies such as DHL and Fedexp.  The price, was basically the same, so why take it on myself.

You need a few days in advance for Luggage Forward because they send you all the paperwork.  I got the paperwork from Boston, DHL, overnight at an office that Fred has used for signature papers, etc.  You have to fill out a bunch of stuff on line such as sending them a photo of your passport (thank god for digital cameras and jpegs) and of course, thanks to the insanity of our Government in the post 9/11 world, we had to detail everything in the bags.  Think camp bags or dry cleaning in a hotel.  All I wanted to do was scream...it is just dirty laundry for gods sake.  The terrorists would not be shipping bags thru Fedexp.  Call me crazy.

Anyway, I got my paperwork.  The window was 3-5 today.  I waited around and they were here by 430. They came and they were thrilled that I had all the paperwork done, and off our bags left.

As I do ship luggage during March break for skiing, I will definitely use Luggage Forward again.  Great customer service that makes life easier, at least for me.