Best Buy is one of the charity partners of MOUSE. They are currently running a program where they are going to give away $250,000 to the charity that gets the most clicks on their website. Best Buy is trying to engage kids on their site. You need to be a teen to sign up. It is actually a clever way to get kids involved. Check it out and click away.
Back into Paris for dinner. We are leaving for Slovenia tomorrow and since there are no direct flights from Stockholm, we stopped over in Paris. Also, Jessica is going back to NYC today from Paris so it made sense.
We went to Itineraires for dinner which was highly recommended to me and had recently been written up in the NYTimes. Great call.
The restaurant is located in the 5th, about a 10 minute block from Notre Dame. The vibe there is refreshing and new. Maybe fits 50 people, tops. Walls are covered in taupe linen, the small window to the kitchen is in the back, there are round and square tables and one high one with stools that separate the room. Black boards in different locations so you can read the menu of the day no matter where you are sitting. Very subtle and sophisticated.
The room is run by 3 women. The menu is 36 euros for 3 courses (appetizer, main and dessert) or 29 euros without dessert. Always a few added bonuses to share that cost a little extra and the menu changes daily. The wine list is extensive.
We all shared a small plate of thinly sliced salamis and a plate of goat cheese and baskets of brown and white bread to start. That in itself is a new concept for Parisians having cheese as a first course to share. All delicious.
Many of us got the gazpacho. A cold tomato soup with a green tomato granita dollop and a few different veggies perfectly cut topped with a thinly sliced roasted piece of tomato which was a nice touch. Refreshing and tasty. Fred got the mushroom carpaccio. Large thinly sliced raw mushrooms over clams and a handful of thinly sliced fennel over the top. I considered the gazpacho but then again I felt I had to do what we do in Paris, and went with the foie gras. 3 sliced of foie gras placed in between thin slices of crispy toast ( that crumbled when you pick it up ) like a sandwich with different sauces and condiments perfectly placed, like art, around the plate. Each appetizer was not only really good but you could tell the care that went into each plates preparation.
Main courses went 2 ways although there were more options. Cod roasted in a light brown broth served in a white bowl topped with a mixture of Japanese vegetables mixed with a lemon confit. Nice and light. I had the chicken. A small breast with the leg of the wing attached. Crispy skin and perfectly cooked meat. Actually cooked in a way that I wasn't sure if it was pan roasted or baked. This was served over whipped buttery potatoes that had a balsamic soy sauce on top and a swatch of a spicy mustard on the side with a few thinly sliced radishes. Sublime.
The kids had enough and blew out to walk back to the hotel along the Seine. Fred and I split one dessert. A round cylinder of crispy pastry topped with pastry cream surrounded by thickly sliced strawberries that had been macerated in sugar and a handful of fresh raspberries on top. A perfect finish.
Loved this place. A great recommendation. Glad we went. As much as I do adore Brasserie Lipp and some of the old school restaurants, I much prefer to see the new chefs come in and take French cooking to a new level. Itineraires would be it.
We strolled back along the Seine to our hotel and discussed where we would live in Paris for an extended period of time and how it is a must somewhere in our future.
Last night we had dinner at Kungsholmen which is one of the many restaurants owned by . Our friend in Stockholm said that the chef Melker reminded him of Gordon Ramsey. Whatever the case, it was one of the only "chef" type restaurants open.
On the water, which is really nice. Definitely a happening place. Sort of caters to everyone so a good place with a group. There are a variety of bar areas around the circumference of the room. Nordic, spice, classic, fast food and a few others. The tables are low to the floor which creates an ambiance right there. Someone said when we sat down, feels like Passover (when we recline in our chairs)
Everything comes in either a half portion or a full (so appetizer size or entree).
The food was nothing to write home about but it was fun. I started with a salmon tartare topped with trout roe. Raw salmon chopped up with tiny pieces of apple, mustard seeds and a swatch of creme fraiche on the plate (they love creme fraiche in stockholm). Many of us got that although Josh had the shrimp avocado which was similar to the mayonnaise shrimp sandwich we had the other day. Paella was a popular dinner choice. Paella with a strange tasting chicken and overcooked fish and seafood in a small pan with heavily salted risotto on the side. Fred had the bouillabaisse which was quite tasty with a tomato base broth. Jess went for sushi, not a good call.
People in Stockholm praise the food in their town but so far we have no been wowed. Gives me a reason to return when all the top chefs are in town,
We woke up late and waited for the troops to rise. I had to call Josh at 1pm and tell him to take a shower and get out of bed. Once he made his way downstairs, our day began.
We walked over to the Central Park of Stockholm. It is located on Djurgården, the Royal Game Park. It is absolutely beautiful. There are museums, restaurants, open spaces, walks, etc. We walked into the park and went to an area called Rosendal's Garden. It appears to be a small farm. The restaurant there is completely organic. You stand in line and take what you are interested in, like a cafeteria and then get the main courses at the end where the cashier is. It is quite a walk to the area but worth the stroll. We split a few salads that consisted of greens, tomatoes, roasted carrots, , olive puree, cukes, some type of grain, smoked fish and a spicy vinaigrette. We also got a few sandwiches, a few cookies and some local organic drinks.
I love the recycling bins. We should have these in every city throughout the US. Sweden is obviously committed to being green.
After lunch, we made our way back through the park over to the Vasa Museum which is a must. The museum is built around a ship from 1628 that was pulled from the water and is perfect condition. Huge boat with incredible details. Totally cool. When the boat was dredged up there were many intact skeletons inside the boat that the museum was able to take and ecreate the faces so we can see what those people looked like when they were alive. Love technology.
We then walked around the island (this is one of many islands) over to the amusement park where we grabbed the local water taxi and took it across to Sodermalm which is a residential area. Fun to walk around and see the apartments and homes. This area is where all the vintage shops are and is sort of the funkier area. We saw tons of young people with strollers and many cool stores and cafes. Josh had a major score at the Acne store (from Stockholm).
At this point, we were shot. It had been a long day. Lots of walking. The city is really beautiful. Although we are checking out tomorrow and going back to Paris ( for dinner ), I could see staying a few more days. Maybe taking a boat out to the archipelagos which are the 20 some odd islands around Stockholm and doing a few more museums and other areas. There is a really nice friendly vibe in this town and the setting on the water is really magnificent. Thumbs up for Stockholm.
As a rule, I really don't like eating at the hotel or in hotels but in certain countries, the hotel is the key. I attempted to make reservations in more than a handful of restaurants but it appears to be the time that the chef's take off for their vacations too so many places are closed. After sending the concierge a variety of choices, I opted for the restaurant in the hotel. Someone had actually recommended it too.
There are 2 places to eat at the Lyndmar. One is outside, which is mostly for lunch. It sits right on the water, great views, lots of sun, a pretty choice location. Inside, is the main area, where we ate which starting serving breakfast and goes through late night. The room is quite cool. A large room that has an air of a personal library. Shelves with books, bottles of wines, cameras and photos. There are seating areas, tables stacked with art books and then round tables for a bigger group, banquettes under the bookshelves with chairs and then a few high tables with tall stools. Completely eclectic with lots of light, big windows and interesting chandeliers too. Just like the rest of the hotel, there is a very eclectic feel from modern to old that really hits the nail on the head to what is happening now. Sort of a timeless look but right on the mark for the vibe that we are seeing in some of the newer restaurants cropping up in Williamsburg or even the West Village.
The menu is simple. A few salads, a few appetizers where you can choose to make a plate of 3 or 5, tartines and soups. The main courses are all from the grill served with a salad. You kind of get the opportunity to create your own plate. Steak, Veal chop, Fish as the main entree and then underneath that are sauces & butters and it says choose one. Salsa gazpacho, BBQ Sauce, truffle butter are a few of the options. Then under that are condiments and it says next to that and one of these. Those options are new potatoes, french fries, sweet potato, new vegetables, risotto, etc. I like the concept and the food is good. Simple and easy.
After dinner, the kids blew out to see a movie and Fred and I just called it a day. Sleep was calling.
I read my friend's blog daily as she puts up a new card a day. This one made me laugh out loud.
We decided to spend a few days in Stockholm for a few reasons. Indie music galore and Acne to name a few. The town is small, the people are beautiful and there is a very cool vibe. Also, really clean.
We landed around noon and we were the hotel by 1ish. We are staying at the Lydmar Hotel. Centrally located, right on the water. A boutique hotel with nice sized rooms and comfy beds. Highly recommend it. The photographs through out the hotel are pretty amazing too. Almost worth going to every floor and doing a walk through.
We are definitely at the point where the kids separate from us which works fine by me. The girls wanted to hit up the stores and I wasn't quite prepared for that yet. Josh came with me and Fred which is still a treat. We grabbed a cab, since it was pouring (but luckily for a brief moment) and hit up the food market, Ostermalmshallen. Supposedly there are a few food markets in Stockholm and although this one is smaller, it is supposedly one of the best. There are definitely places to buy your fish, your meat, and other products, but there also happens to be a bunch of restaurants around the circumference of the market. We went to lunch at Lisa Elmqvist. We sat at the bar. Josh had the fish and chips, Fred and I split the herring and the shrimp skagen. 3 tiny white cups of herring. Marinated, mustard sauce and cream sauce with a slice of thick brown bread on the side and a piece of cheese. I happen to love herring. I grew up with a bottle of marinated and a bottle of creamed herring in the fridge at all times. I don't keep it now but I do remember as a kid, even when the refrigerator was empty, there was always herring. The shrimp skagen is large helping of small shrimps tossed in a heavy sauce (think mayonaisse) over a piece of toast (no crust). Not sure any of this was something I will pine for later in life but as they say, when in Rome..
Afterward, we walked over to the old section of Stockholm, Gamla Stan. We wandered around, had a latte (a beautiful one at that) in the square where there are a bunch of small cafes. Then we went back to the hotel. On vacation, we all need the R & R in the late afternoon.
We walked over to the 2nd last night and had dinner at Chez Georges. An old time bistro with classic French cooking. Mostly locals which is always a bonus. What I remembered, the minute we entered, is that Fred and I had eaten there 20 some years ago.
Not sure how I found all the places we ate at or where we stayed or what our days would be full of or what stores we should go to back then. I can't imagine life without the Internet which has all the information you need to figure it out your own customized vacation. The hardest part about the Internet is just finding what you need with all the information out there.
Appetizers can be easily shared at Chez George as they come out in large white bowls. Everyone had their own last night but something to remember. The high points were the lentil salad and ratatoille. The mixed green salad and foie gras were ok and the mushrooms were not what I was expecting. Quartered cremini mushrooms cooked in a tea broth. Not my cup of tea, no pun intended.
For dinner, the sole was simple and good. The poached turbot over pasta and mushrooms was excellent and loaded with butter. The sliced duck with a brown butter sauce and roasted mushrooms on the side was also a winner. Lamb chops were okay but the green beans on the side were delicious...again loaded with butter which is why they were so good.
Years ago, when Fred and I went to Chez Georges, it was our last dinner in Paris. Fred insisted on reading the french menu as he was adamant that he was up to speed with his french. I opted for English knowing that although I took French for more years than I care to share, language is not my thing, unfortunately. He ordered what he thought was veal and it turned out to be calves balls laden with cream. It was hilarious when the waiter told Fred who was taken back when the entree came, what he had ordered. I had no problem with them ( the balls ) so I switched with Fred but it is a memorable story and has been told in the family lore a few times. So when we walked in the restaurant, it made me laugh.
For dessert we strolled back to Amorino on Rue de Buci for some of the best gelato in Paris, where there is always a line. The cones are beautiful. 2 flavors. The first flavor put in the cone and then the second flavored put around the cone to make it look like a flower. Then off to bed for an early flight out to Stockholm.
The European time change is always a tough one. Plane takes off in the late afternoon or early evening and once you fall asleep, it is time to wake up and function all day. Not easy.
We got to Paris yesterday at 6am, rooms weren't ready and although Emily and Jessica were already here, waking them was not an option. So, we walked and did breakfast.
I always love breakfast at Les Deux Magots where the pastries, croissants and baguettes are delicious. The coffee is too but the hot chocolate is one of the best in town. Les Deux Magots is also the classic cafe that opens up to the street, all day through the night.
After a leisurely breakfast we made our way over to Bon Marche since the food market (La Grand Epicerie de Paris) is open early. All our kids got into Regale when we stayed here for an extended time last summer. Regale is a better version of Starbursts. Josh walked directly to the right aisle and picked up 8 bags. Pretty hilarious actually.
We sauntered around and went back to the hotel for everyone to wake up. We have stayed at a variety of hotels but I continue to come back to Hotel Montalembert. I love the location, on the left bank but right near the Seine, although the rooms are small, I do like the vibe there. It is nice being back for many reasons but one of the best things is the comfort level of walking around, knowing where I am and seeing familiar sights.
We split up and I spent the day with Jessica doing some decent damage on new purchases. Had lunch at the Hotel Costes on St Honore with her friend. Each of the Costes restaurants, scattered through out the city, have the same menu at each location and it works. This particular restaurant has a wonderful outdoor garden. Also, each restaurant, although similar in menu, have a very hipster high end vibe.
Afterward I went back to the hotel and crashed. Great to be back.
I'd say over the past 25 years, I have been to Periyali 10 times. There is a reason that it continues to thrive.
At one point, Periyali was probably the only upscale Greek restaurant in Manhattan but that has changed over the years. Many top Greek restaurants, although only a handful, have entered the landscape. Yet, Periyali is the only one downtown. I am not sure when, although the menu has not changed, the decor has. The renovation is simple and has the air of being in Santorini., Greece. White ceiling, white furniture and hints of blue and white. The food is still good and if you close your eyes, you can pretend you are on that island.
We all split the classic greek salad which they make so well. Feta, cukes, tomatoes, red onions with a light red wine vinegar dressing. For appetizers, 2 of us got the octopus which is excellent. As the waiter said, it is their signature dish. Braised first, then finished off on the grill and placed in a red wine reduction. Really delicious and needs to be sopped up with bread to finish the plate off. Someone else has a plate of simply grilled asparagus and another had the Greek meatballs in a tomato sauce. All the greek seasonings in tiny meat balls which were tasty and light.
Three of us went with the whole Dorado grilled with olive oil and herbs. Simple, well cooked. On the side comes couscous and brocolli rabe which is nothing special but a nice addition. Someone else has the braised lamb which is full of flavor and served over tiny Greek pastis which looks like orzo. Sort of super cook home cooking, Greek style. We also split a nice bottle of white wine from Santorini from a small vineyard.
We were all quite full so we bagged dessert although my memory from past meals is that the desserts are yummy. Why I continue to come back is that I know what I am getting, the service is old style New York waiters, the food is classic Greek right out of Santorini and the added bonus is the noise level is low. Won't be back tomorrow but when the hankering arises for a Greek dinner, Periayli is always our first stop.
Rachel Kushner: The Flamethrowers: A Novel
A beautiful intelligently written book that threads together NYC and Rome in the 1970's. The prose is just amazing. There is an underlying theme about lies and trust. The main character, Reno, whose eyes the book is written through is like a sponge taking in a world and essentially educating herself. I admit I did not love the ending and the book bounces around a bit although an interesting look at a time that bounced around too so the story defines those times.
Peggy Riley: Amity & Sorrow: A Novel
A mother drives for days with her daughters and ends up in a random Oklahoma town after crashing the car. They come from a polygamous community where there were 50 wives. The mother had grown up knowing life outside that community. Over time, after leaving, she almost becomes deprogrammed. The realization of what she did to her daughters who no nothing outside the world they came from including how to read. Then there is the family that brought them in. It is a fascinating story. Well written. Worthy read.
Charles Graeber: The Good Nurse: A True Story of Medicine, Madness, and Murder
An amazing true story of a male nurse who was arrested in 2002. I actually remember the story as I followed it in the papers. This nurse was a serial killer who had probably murdered over 400 patients that were under his care. A seriously well researched book. Great read.
Meg Wolitzer: The Interestings: A Novel
Wolitzer writes about a group of camp friends who all come from different walks of life (some on scholarship) as their friendships continue through their mid-50s. At the beginning the story seems trite but as you continue to read there is a lot of be said. The story is sticking with me. She makes the case that everything that happens to you from your childhood makes an impact on who you become or don't become. Worthy read.
Elizabeth Strout: The Burgess Boys: A Novel
Strouts last book won a Pulitzer. She focuses on family issues. I enjoyed this book much more than Olive Ketteredge which I found utterly depressing. This book follows two brothers and a sister who live in the shadow of their fathers accidental death. Like most siblings, all have turned out very different yet they are connected. I did not love any of the characters, like her last book, yet as The Burgess Boys moves forward and memories are revealed, it is an interesting perspective on human character.
Tamara Shopsin: Mumbai New York Scranton: A Memoir
Great book. A witty spare inventive personal diary of Tamara journey from Indian to New York to Scranton. Really really enjoyed the book.
Michael Lavigne: The Wanting: A Novel
An incredible book that tells the human side of the many layered issues in the Middle East. From immigrating to Israel from Moscow, to being a victim of a suicide bomber yet surviving, to being pulled into an Israeli radical group. Each character is connected. Very layered well written book. Powerful
Alessandro Piol: Tech and the City: The Making of New York's Startup Community
A history of the Internet that I lived through. Great job of recording what happened.
Amity Gaige: Schroder: A Novel
Not sure how much I loved this book. A father loses his child in divorce and decides to kidnap his own daughter. He is not a stable person but he obviously loves his daughter. His own childhood has made him a disconnected human being. An interesting journey but not sure I'd recommend.
