Gotham Gal

another day in paris and my feet are pounding

First thing this morning, we got up and took the Metro over to Les Deux Magots.   A classic Parisian cafe, ridiculously overpriced.  Josh had his caffeine shot of Coke Light which was about $8 for the bottle.  The wonderful half baguettes we each ordered were fantastic.  They come with bread and jam.  Oh, did I mention they charge you an extra $3 per jar of jam and don't even ask what flavor you would prefer.  Regardless, there is nothing quite like bread, butter and jam with fresh squeezed orange juice on the side to start off the day watching Parisians walk the street at the same time.  

The weather has been strange.  One minute sunny, the next raining.  We strolled back over to the art gallery Fred and I had walked into the other night.  This time, we purchased.  The pieces I liked the other night didn't really resonate with me over the past 48 hours but one painting Fred loved and still loved when we walked back in.  We bought it.  A Spanish artist, Vall Karsune. 

Josh, on the other hand, not only loved the piece Fred liked but was obsessed with the gnome giving the finger for his room.  The artist, Ottmar Horl,  had a few originals signed but then had mass produced them in plastic.  We opted for that and Josh was thrilled.  

After the weather cleared, we walked over to Muriel Grateau.  Her tabletop linens are the best.  I bought a tablecloth over 10 years ago here and it still is in good shape.  It was time for a replacement.  I got a black tablecloth and red napkins.  Everything is basic but the colors are beautiful as you can see from the picture. 

This is my favorite pic of Josh and Fred waiting for me while I do the deed at Muriel Grateau.  Like father, like son.

Fred went back to the hotel to get Emily and Josh and I marched onward.  The exhibit at the Petit Palais is a retrospective of Yves Saint Laurent. The exhibit is phenomenal.  Actual pieces from all the years.  Whoever curated this show did an amazing job.  There was a black wall with all of his black designs devoted to the smoking jacket era that was breathtaking.  YSL's influence is significant today.  So many of the pieces in the exhibit were as modern today as they were in 1967.  There was one particular gown.  Red with black string lacing up the back.  The fabric was draped perfectly and the gown was strapless.  Even Josh commented on the beauty of this piece.  One room was devoted to Catherine Deneuve's closet of YSL pieces.  Another room was his office, desk and pieces he had hanging behind his desk.  On the right of this was a movie of YSL sitting at his desk just drawing at quite a young age.  Watching him draw was extraordinary to watch how his brain just churned it out.  Really incredible exhibit.

Fred and Emily were a little behind us so Josh and I forged onward.  In the 9th, is a chocolate shop that we have been attempting to get to each time we have been in Paris.  It always seems to be closed when we are here.  Not today.  The store is called L'Etoile D'Or run by the nicest women.  The woman who owns the store is Denise Acabo.  She dons a plaid short pleated skirt, braids in her hair and is probably in her 70's.  Quite the memorable character. 

This store carries chocolate, lots of chocolate.  She has amassed chocolate from the best places around. 

Today the store was prepped for Easter.  Josh and I went a little nuts but all worth it.

We hopped back on the metro and met Fred and Emily back at the Palais Royal for a little more shopping.  By the time I got back to the hotel, my feet were killing me.  Just enough time to kick off my shoes to get ready for dinner. 

Le Chateaubriand

This is our second time back to Le Chateaubriand.  I have always liked the concept of this restaurant particularly if you are the owner of the restaurant.  45 euros and whatever they are serving that day, is what you get.  Certainly is easier on the kitchen and each day gives the chef total creativity.  The downside is if you have reservations for a particular night, you might not like what they are serving (although they try to be flexible and ask if you don't like something). 

The restaurant was packed last night and they were understaffed.  We sat down at 830 and didn't leave until 11pm.  The food came out slowly and that was not the case last time we were there.  This wasn't French time it was understaffed time. The menu was interesting but nothing blew us away. 

First thing out was the Amuse Bouche.  A small bowl filled with tiny squares of potatoes sitting in a warm fish broth and a piece of thinly sliced raw squid sitting on top.  Definitely creative and tasty.  The basket of warm bread to wipe the bowl clean was the way to go.

The second plate was a small piece of burrata that had a good texture, nice and runny.  The cheese wasn't that flavorful.  It was combined with one stalk of purple asparagus and a thin slice of raw asparagus and a chopped mixture of asparagus and something fishy that resembled a pesto.  It was a nice second course but nothing spectacular.

Third course was fish.  A poached piece of white fish sitting on I believe a parsley pesto that looked like it had been painted across the plate.  Served with this was 2 small artichokes and roasted olives.  The olives were a nice touch and delicious. 

The main course was veal.  The veal was almost raw.  Maybe that was the concept but it make me really think that they were seriously understaffed last night.  The vegetables on the plate were roasted turnips and tiny beets.  Very organic.  Some thinly sliced and others split in half.  Very bland.  There was also small pieces of a sardines on the plate not sure the preparation.

The last course was either a cheese plate or dessert.  Fred and I went for the cheese which was really good.  All small tastes of different cheese.  Josh and Emily went with the dessert. 

One dish was a chocolate sorbet with a smear of orange sorbet underneath the chocolate.  The other bowl was whipped cream over a pear and plum crumble with a hint of thyme. 

I want to give Le Chateaubriand a thumbs up because they have been the leaders in the changing restaurant culture in Paris.  There are new restaurants popping up daily in Paris.  Many of the chefs are trained in the classic Michelin rated restaurants and have gone out on their own to open something more relaxed and innovative.  It is wonderful to see.  Perhaps the restaurant was just understaffed, perhaps they were just too packed last night, perhaps, perhaps, perhaps but as I said earlier, nothing blew me away last night and for that reason, I came away disappointed. 

another day in paris

After some serious sleep, Fred and I got up for a croissant and coffee.  We walked a few blocks from our hotel, sat in a cafe and planned our day.  Josh and Emily were still sleeping and told us last night not to wake them up.  We obeyed.

After full being fully caffeinated, we took a quick trip around an area near Les Halles which has a bunch of kitchen stores all located with in a few blocks of each other.  First stop E. Dehillerin.  A true haven.  The staff couldn't be nicer.  They have every single utensil you can think of.  Total old school.  I did think about buying a handful of copper pots but reconsidered realizing I can have them shipped directly to my house if I want.  No need to haul them through customs.  We left there and waled over to La Bovida which is another store chocked full of kitchen supplies for amateurs and professionals.  The big difference between E. Dehillerin and La Bovida is organization and centuries.  La Bovida has a bit more of the new stuff and you could walk around in white gloves where as E. Dehillerin hasn't been cleaned in years.  This picture is from La Bovida.  Check out the size of the paella pan hanging in the back (you can barely see it in the far left).  Must be 3 feet in diameter.

After that we stopped in to Kitchen Bazaar.  There are a few of them around the city.  Many of the items come from England.  I bought a few things.  One item was a chopping board that folds into 3 after use so you can easily pour what ever you have just chopped into the bowl.  Simple and a total, "duh" but I have never seen it before.  I also got a small can opener that supposedly works to pop a hard to open top instead of having to use the Oxo piece that is shaped like a triangle and opens up those hard to turn tops.  We will see.  And a basic plastic bottle with the perfect opening for pouring sauces on a plate.  Last was an object that looks like a pen.  You stuff it with icing to write on a cake and use it like a pen.  Clever but again, we will see how it works.

We connected with Emily and Josh and they met us in the Marais at Les Marches des Enfant Rouge which is a market place filled with tiny restaurants and food stalls.  We always go back to the same one there that serves Japanese food.  There have constructed a tiny structure with picnic tables inside for winter.  The food is so good there.  Fred got a bento box with grilled sardines.  Sardines flattened out and grilled in a mixture of Japanese spices.

The rest of us went with the raw salmon cut into small pieces over warm rice topped with chopped scallions.
For a side order, we had some tofu.  You can't go wrong here. 

Emily has a friend in town so she took a pass and hooked us up with later.  We walked over to Merci which is a concept store in the Marais.  On route we stopped by a store called Blank.  The t-shirts were very cool and Josh picked up two. 


Merci is a mixture of many concept stores we have seen throughout Europe.  T.A.D. in Rome,  Q in Bangkok and 10 Corso Como in Milan to name a few. 

A mixture of clothes, art, tabletop and of course a cafe.  Personally, I didn't love Merci. 

The vibe and look they are trying to create had more of a bend towards country than modern.  Although they carried some good designers, more were for Emily than for me.  Worth checking out. 

We then went on a small shopping spree for Josh stopping at April 77 and APC.  Shopping for clothes must be innate and Josh's gene has just kicked in.  His attention span is short but he was getting into it.

The 3 of us took the tube over to La Pinacotheque to see the Edward Munch exhibit.  Quite the retrospective.  This particular space is off the Madeline stop which is chocked full of gourmet food stores which I recommend strolling through...and of course eating too.  The Munch exhibit was fantastic is you love Munch.  I am not sure his stuff rocks my world.  Long career, much more varied and prolific than I realized but otherwise, not my thing.

Fred cut out on Josh and me.  The two of us kept going.  Josh remembered there was a Pierre Herme right near where we were.  We picked up a few goodies for the room.  They don't sell the double napoleon at this Pierre Herme location only at the one on the left bank.  Worth the journey if you haven't had it before.  Beyond delicious and worth every single calorie.  Pick up a jar of jam for the trip home too. 

Then we did a little more shopping for me where Josh helped me out but no purchases today.  Back to the hotel for a little R and R before dins.

back to l'atelier de joel robuchon

The food is always delicious at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.  It is always expensive.  It is not filled with locals.  You always sit a the bar because that is what the restaurant is made of.  A long bar that wraps throughout the restaurant.  We always feel compelled to return because it is so damn good. 

I started with the sardines.  Almost like a terrine.  Layers of sardines,roasted red peppers and mashed eggplant with chopped scallions.  Quite good and the handiwork was particularly amazing. 
Josh went with the jambon that is served with the chopped tomatoes over a piece of toasted bread.  Very Spanish and if you close your eyes, you can pretend you are in Barcelona when you take a bite.  Emily had something she had there before.  Layered roasted eggplant and fresh mozzarella.  Fred had the shrimp lobster combo served with a simple sauce.  All delicious but what is truly amazing here is the attention to detail on every single plate. 

For a second course, Emily passed.  Josh had the deconstructed crab ravioli which is a signature dish.

I tried the soft shell crab tempura that sat over spicy whipped avocado mix.  Light and tasty at the same time.  Fred had a plate of smoked salmon which was neon orange and served with a pancake like crepe and creme fraiche.  Amazing.

For the main, Emily went with the classic tomato basil spaghetti that they do quite well.  Fred and I had the special.  Roasted pig.  Large pieces that cut like butter with thin slices of crispy skin over the top sitting on a foamy mustard base.  It was sublime.  On the side was a buttery mashed potatoes in a small terrine.  The choice word here is butter. 

Josh had a handful of small lamb chops. One bite per chop.

We were exhausted and full.  Home to bed and hopefully refreshed for a new day.  They do love to serve the wines by the glass out of the big bottles.  I realize that tonight was the first night of Passover.  Jessica is at school and we are in Paris.  Next year, Israel.  Although more than likely, December vacation, Israel. 

Paris

We landed in Paris this morning.  It isn't easy flying over to Europe.  The flight isn't that long and the change of time is almost as long as the flight.  Everybody was totally whacked when we got here.  I always book one room for the night when we are traveling just so when we check in, we can shower and nap.  We all crashed and were barely coherent the rest of the day.

 

After a nap, we strolled down St.Honore, stopped at a cafe and each had a Coke Light.  Caffeine was essential.  Then we hit up Colette and walked through the Tuilleries.  The left bank has slowly added more and more galleries over the last couple of years.  Even in the 3rd, the Marais, there are a bunch of new galleries with young artists.  It is good to see.

Josh and Emily had left Fred and me in the dust so we walked into a few galleries.  Philippe Guegan that had handful of pieces by Todd & Fitch.  This particular piece is what drew us in the door.  It is hard to see the word dream when you are standing directly in front of the piece but I liked the concept.

The next gallery we went to was Geraldine Banier.  I really loved what she had.  Lots of sculpture and a few edgy artists.  There was one artist in particular, Constance Chabrieres, who had created sculptures out of paper mache.  The two people were interesting. 

I also liked the woman carrying her grocery cart.  This particular piece had a purple hue to it. 

Our favorite was the one of the skateboarder.  I am trying to figure out where I would put it.  They also had a few gnomes giving the finger which were hilarious by Ottmar Horl.  Might have to go back there and pick something up.

Fred and I then strolled around more and ended up at Hotel Montalembert for a drink.  Then we met Josh and Emily for an early dinner at Joel Robuchon.     

Last day skiing

Yesterday was a white out.  I am truly a fair weather skier at this point.  Hitting the slopes when snow is getting in my eyes and the light is so flat that I can't see a thing just doesn't do it for me anymore.  I did want to strap on a pair of skis yesterday but that will have to wait until next year. 

Josh and Max, the youngsters hit the slopes all day long.  Fred joined them for some tree skiing in the afternoon.  Happy boys.

We are wrapping up the vacation here.  Ordered in Chinese food last night. 

Finished off a rousing Monopoly game.  I would not attempt to cross Josh's path.  He is a meglamaniac when it comes to games.  Very competitive and calculating.  Gee, where does he get that from?

Back in NYC this evening for less than 24 hours and then off to Paris for a week.  We should be thoroughly whacked out by the time zone but nothing a few bottles of wine, some cheese and a baguette can't cure. 

Moe's Original BBQ

We picked up BBQ at Vail before heading back to dinner in Beaver Creek.  The Lion's Head area of Vail has tripled in size since I was there last.  There are a handful of new restaurants, a skating rink and new hotels.   We could smell Moe's Original BBQ just talking through the square. 

Walking into Moe's reminds me of days of yore when I hit up places like this for ours after a day on the slopes.  A total boarders haven.  Shots of Makers Mark were flowing served in small plastic containers usually reserved for ketchup and mustard at fast food restaurants.  Regardless of the down and dirty vibe, the food is the real deal.

There is a huge smoker in the back.  The smell is heavenly.  There are a variety of options from smoked chicken, smoked turkey, pulled pork, ribs, whole bird, and wings.   We narrowed down to buffalo wings ( which are made in the smoker ), ribs and a whole bird.  We have eaten a serious amount of meat this week so we thought some poultry could be the call.  Added to that was grilled corn bread, macaroni and cheese, cole slaw and banana pudding for dessert.

The bbq was fantastic.  The real deal.  Particularly loved the buffalo wings not being deep fried but smoked.  Sides were fine and the kids seemed to love the banana pudding.  The only thing missing was a bottle of Makers Mark's and shot glasses. 

hitting the slopes with the teens

Today was teen day.  I hit the slopes with Josh and his friend Max.  We all board but they are 14.  Keeping up is exhausting.  Tomorrow morning I will probably be in some serious pain.  Although it was lots of fun and they make me feel young....too young. 

 

We met up with our friends at Red Tail for lunch.  My favorite lunch spot on the mountain. 

 

Called it quit after a few post lunch runs to go tubing.  We hooked up with Emily and her friend Caity and drove over to Vail.


It was definitely fun.  We took the gondola up where the tubing happens.  These pics are of the kids in the gondola. 

 

 
The best way to go down is holding on to your friends tubes.  The more people, the merrier.  More weight makes for a faster ride.  This picture is of all the kids going down together. 

Whenever we come to Beaver Creek, an afternoon tubing at Vail always seems to be in the cards. 

Mamie's Grill, a new addition to Beaver Creek

We all converged for lunch at Mamie's grill which is a new addition to the mountain at the top of Bachelor Gulch.  I am not a huge fan of that side of the mountain but since there was a new lunch place, we felt compelled to go.

A beautiful spot overlooking the back end of the mountain.  The concept is simple.  Buy your food.  Menu consists mostly of burgers, kabobs and dogs.  Burgers are the way to go.  You get your food uncooked and it is up to you to prepare your food to your liking.

There are 2 grills and a variety of spices to choose from.  We had fun because we were the only people who happened to be up there but if there were more, it would probably not work so well.

Conceptually great, execution not so great.  The grills are not that hot so it takes longer than anyone would like to cook their burger.  The burgers are huge, easily 2" thick.  Some of us just got impatient and ate them mostly rare, while others persevered and waited it out.  The grill only works when it is closed because the heat level is just not up to par.

Probably won't be back to that side of the mountain.  Mamie's might consider cranking up the heat or being given the option for someone else to cook your burger. 

Open, An Autobiography by Andre Agassi

I loved this book.  Andre Agassi is a survivor.   His story is not only a glimpse into the insanity of any professional athletes life but his own demons. 

He confirms the theory that if you do anything for over 10,000 hours, you will become an expert.  Agassi was hitting tennis balls for hours a day by the time he could hold a racket.  He and his siblings are first generation Americans as his father was an immigrant from Iran.  Like many immigrants parents, they want something more for their child.  Agassi's father wanted his kids to be tennis pros and he channeled all his energies around that dream.  Andre might have hated the process which made him hate tennis but he had raw talents that were apparent the day he started hitting the tennis ball.

Agassi was the first generation of kids at the Nick Bollettieri tennis academy.   The academy caters to kids who are on the fast track to tennis stardom.  Live in Florida instead of home and let Nick mold and nurture your life.   Agassi provides a tell all of what that life meant for him at the academy.

Agassi ceased to be educated at 16 and turned pro.  Regardless, he is no dummy.   What I loved about the book is how transparent Agassi is in telling his story.  He has a huge heart and is loyal to the family and friends around him.  He never forgets where he came from.  He is incredibly philanthropic with friends in their times of need.  Unbelievably so. 

The book is engaging and honest.  He shares all the demons that go through his head at every match, every relationship and at every turn. 

He seems to have found peace and happiness with Steffi Graff.  In retirement, he has poured a tremendous amount of his energies into an education facility in Las Vegas where he is making a difference in hundreds of children's lives. 

I would guess that although Agassi is no longer playing on the court, he will be back.  Not as a tennis player but something else that will make an impact.  He is a survivor and although a one man band (which is what tennis is all about ), he has the makings of a killer entrepreneur.